How to get there:
From the town of Malargue, drive Hwy. 40 south, then Hwy. 145 (towards Chile) west.
Near location South 35.79388, West 70.14155, turn right onto RP-226. This is a dirt road that
runs about 100 kilometer to another border crossing into Chile, called Paso Vergara.
Most ascents have been recorded with start from near Banos del Azufre, location
South 35.29256, West 70.52031, elevation near 2460 meter. However, we were chased away
from this area about 5 hours after establishing camp there, by the gendarme (police).
We were directed to camp a bit more up the valley, thus I decided to try another
route, starting from location South 35.26002, West 70.50209, elevation 2440 meter.
Route description:
Head uphill a bit south of west, there is no good trail, but you may spot
some footprints. The terrain has a lot of loose rocks. Aim for location
S35.26232, W70.51243, elevation close to 2575 meter.
You should be able to locate a trail (that may be followed) from about this point.
Also, see my track posted on Peakbagger.
After a more level ssection, this trail/route will ascend more steeply the north-east ridge
of the local summit (about 3460 m) that you see ahead. Below the summit the trail makes
a traversing bypass on the north side. This is more steepish terrain, but the trail
is good to follow. There is a short (YDS class 3) down-climb,
then the trail gets to
easier terrain, traversing to meet the route coming up your left (Banos del Azufre area).
An outline of the remaining route is easy to see from this area.
The route continues up the next ridge, across a minor summit, descends a little, then
starts following the final ridge that will lead to the summit.
However, you will soon see a main issue, a pinnacle summit on the ridge. The bypass is
easier on the left side, but beware of loose rocks as well as an area of penitentes.
Higher up, there is a second bump that one should also bypass on the same side.
Beyond these two "bumps", the ridge continues
more gently, all the way to the summit marked
with a small cairn.
Comments:
Franco and I had completed the long, but very scenic drive up the valley to this peak, the previous
day. We set up camp among the ruins from where other friends had ascended this peak. The area is
marked as Banos del Azufre on the map, located south-east of the peak.
Just shortly before sunset a car with national police (Gendarmes) showed up and told us that we
could not camp in this spot. No good reason given, somebody had died many years ago - so what?
We had to move, they told us we could camp near the border control post closer to the Chile border.
It got dark before we were able to reestablish camp much closer to the border.
The next morning, Franco told me he felt quite bad and that he could not hike.
He told me that I should go solo. We also decided to try a possible route
beginning closer to where we had camped.
I started my walk at 0715, daylight was coming. There was no visible trail, but I headed up
a small valley, then continued up a slope with very loose sand. In fact, the walking felt
like walking in pretty deep snow.
I was therefore quite happy when I sort of unexpected hit a very clear trail near the top
of the initial slopes. It was nice to walk on a trail, it contoured around the end of the
ridge, then headed towards the steeper slope leading up to the local top ahead. I followed the
top of this ridge and realized that the route would traverse below the summit on the right.
The terrain here looked steep, but the small trail picked its way in a very good fashion.
I soon passed the junction where the trail from my original trailhead came up from
my left. The continuation was nice and soon
I was looking up the final ridge that
clearly had a local top that looked difficult.
I followed a trail that got smaller the higher it went until only a few meter below
the tiny top of this pinnacle. No, I was up here solo, to climb across this top was
not advisable. I turned around and descended while looking for a passage down on my right.
As soon as it looked feasible, I descended off the ridge and down towards a large area
of penitentes. This was not a very good area, big rocks that had been frozen, were now
unstable and moved when I touched them. I still got down to the snow. This was actually
my first time trying to cross an area with big penitentes.
It was easily at least 3 meter
from the base to the top of these icy walls. Moreover,
they were all badly tilted. This
meant that walking between them involved leaning over, quite awkward. Well, at least safer
than the big, loose rocks. I continued through the penitente area until I had past not
only the first pinnacle, but also the second.
The final walk along the ridge
to the summit was quite pleasant and easy, but somewhat
longer than anticipated. I arrived at the summit 5:45 after leaving the truck. A better
bypass of the final obstacles probably would have saved about 30 minutes.
A very nice summit with a tiny cairn.
Good views all around.
Close to perfect weather.
I started my return after 30 minutes,
at 1330. First, I went more left (higher) on the
right side (looking downslope) of the first obstacle. This was pretty successful,
a short steepish descent between some penitentes
was the only slight problem. Next, I
climbed back onto the ridge and discovered a climbers trail that crossed over to the
left side. This looked promising, but the trail climbed back up, approaching the
lower (main) pinnacle from this side. A high bypass still looked a bit risky, so I went
back and looked at the possibility of traversing down and around on my left side.
The terrain was steep and loose, but with no large unstable blocks, so with careful
moves this still looked possible. I descended and sort
of committed to this traverse.
It did take longer than I had planned and overall it probabely took me about one
hour before I was back on route on the lower side of the pinnacle.
I had a very pleasant walk
back from here, arriving at the truck where Franco was
waiting, at 1730, 4 hours including the slow traverse on the east side of the
pinnacle.
We drove back to the town Malargue, the drive down
the valley was again very scenic,
but time consuming. We arrived back at the paved road just as it got dark. Still,
back at our hotel Terra Patagonia around 2130. I concluded the day with a late
trout dinner at a nearby restaurant.
