Mount Edith Cavell
- Mount Edith Cavell
- 3363 m
- Primary factor 2033 m
- Alberta, Canada.
- Location: North 52.66698, West 118.05357 (GPS on the summit)
- Difficulty: YDS class 3
- Climbed August 5. 2018
Mount Edith Cavell
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How to get there:
Route description:
From the hostel, walk back down to the road, cross it and
take the shortcut that reconnects with the (side)road a bit
lower. Cross the bridge and take the wide path that first
climbs slightly, then curves around to your left in order
to follow the hillside. This path is quite big and well
developed. As you get closer to the mountain ahead, ie. can see
that a (side)valley will branch left, then pay attention in order
to locate a (smaller) trail that forks left. If you cross the
river, you have gone too far. This is about 4 kilometer from
the trailhead were you started.
Take this very clear trail that heads uphill (left) from the
main trail. The trail runs through old forest, breaks out near
the tree line, then runs through sections of younger (smaller)
trees, before turning more uphill and engtering a nice, open basin
with gras. The big slope
with talus and rocks is looming ahead.
You may notice a faint trail that leads across the first section
of rocks, then uphill. Do the initial climb on the left side
of the creek (in the middle), then cross to the right at a pretty
obvious location. Thus, the major part of this ascent will be
to the climbers right hand side of the creek. A rock-rib extends
uphill, it provides more stable rock and ascending on it is
recommended. There will be several small cairns indicating
a good route.
Higher up, the rocks are quite unpleasant, many medium sized rocks are quite
loose and unstable. One should be careful in this area if there are climbers
below. Ascend up this final stretch to gain the main ridge.
Turn right and foillow the broad ridge,
the best rock is often staying left
close to the steep drop on that side. Higher up, it is easy to see that the route
becomes (too) steep and a traverse right, to reach the ridgeline that you see across
to your right. A small climbers trail may be followed across, if icy an ice axe should
be used. Immediately, when on the new ridge-line, scramble up (left) and follow this
ridge tgo the first (and lowest) summit. There are two more summits, a snowridge connecting
them. Crampons and ice axe may be needed to traverse this (sharp) ridge. Later in summer
(we were there in early August), the snow melts out on the south side and the traverse can be
done along the rocks on this side.
Comments:
I did this climb with my son Pål Jørgen. We had a reservation
at the hostel, since the road was closed, except for people staying
there. We arrived the evening before and enjoyed a nice evening before
sleep.
The next morning, we were up early and left by 0600. Pål set a good pace
and we arrived at the trailfork by 0640.
The trail up and into the basin was easy to follow, slightly less clear exactly
where the route ascended. We stayed left and scrambled some easy rocks, then
moved right and crossed the creek. Small cairns showed that this was a common
route. Pretty nice rock until quite high, then loose before gaining the ridge.
We followed the ridge, traversed right to the ridge-point on our right. Instead
of immediately going up the ridge, wse followed what looked like a climbers trail
leading onto the slope on the right hand side of the ridgeline. Big mistake! We
realized this pretty soon and had a slightly scary scramble on loose terrain
to get onto the ridge. The rest was easy. The snow ridge between the 3 summit points
could be followed on rocks. The first summit
had a register, it is clearly the
lowest. The two next summits are close, but a somewhat careful measurement using
our half-empty water bottle seemed to confirm that it is indeed the last (3rd.,most easterly)
peak that is the highest one.
We had arrived at 1130,
leaving at 1215, we had a nice return
hike. Back at 1635, this trip is absolutely a full day outing.
