How to get there:
Good access is from the paved Hwy. running south on the west side of the range.
Fork left (east) near location N46.87055, E092.52077.
Drive across towards the mountain
and enter the main drainage.
One can drive up this valley, a nice camp site
is located near N46.97411, E092.67346, elevation just short of 3000 meter.
Route description:
Ascend into the valley directly opposite, then ascend left in order to climb
the main ridge that forms the left side (as seen from below) of this
valley. This ridge extends east (or slightly south of east) towards the peak.
Eventually, turn more north (left) in order to ascend the glacier immediately
west of the highest point which is now a rock feature.
The highest ice is perhaps
100 meter north. The entire ascent is easy with no steep section. The glacier
is (unfortunately) about to melt away.
Comments:
Here is a quick summary of peaks climbed in Mongolia August 2024.
After a morning ascent of Bumbat, we drove north and west in order to
visit this peak. We arrived at a good camp site already by 1500. The weather was good and
we all liked the idea of an afternoon ascent.
Leaving around 1515, we
made good progress. The rock summit was
visited around 1730, so about 2:15 hours up.
I next walked across to what looked
like the highest snow.
We left around 1755, an easy hike followed and return to camp by
1920, for a total trip time just above 4 hours.
So 2 ultra peaks in a single day. This has certainly happened before, but it
is in the distant past. Perhaps more significant, the last three summits were
planned across 6 days. We are now about 4 days ahead of this schedule. The earlier
move putting Altan Hohiy ahead of Turgen,
which cost us a full day of extra driving, has now been fully recovered.
